Day Seven: Masks, Costumes, and Street Food

We were finally able to wrap up our portion of the artisan visits today after checking off Ohtsuki Kokun, the Noh mask maker, and Sasaki Yoji, the Noh costume maker.

Like Miyamoto-sensei, Kokun-sensei was eager to show us his carving process, as seen here, which consists of wood carved, covered with gesso, and then painted. Furthermore, he had many of his masks–traditional and not, Noh and Kyogen–out on display. It was surreal seeing so many at once, especially such similar ones (like the masks of young women) placed successively. I began to see the complexity of expression and how it is achieved through the use of light. 

It was quite surreal entering Sasaki Yoji’s facility in Nishijin, an area rich in history. We were blown away by how time and history could be so palpable, from the looms that have been used for over a hundred years (and are still going strong) to the punchcard system for weaving individual threads into patterns. Everything about it was steeped in the continuity of tradition, reinforced by the younger employee present among all his elderly counterparts.

Afterwards, we had dinner at the hostel before giving practice invitations. Today was an interesting day, but I’m ready for it to be tomorrow.

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