So there’s a reason I’ve been splitting these two weeks into one post again, which is mainly because I wanted to make life easier on the reader who likely doesn’t want to slog through a boring repetitive schedule of “I studied, then I studied again” ad infinitum. Consider this account a more laconic version of the full, much more mundane version. As for what happened on the weekends, on July 6th I summited Mt. Hiei, which is the tallest one accessible in Kyoto. It has a spectacular view of Lake Biwa better shown in pictures than described in words, but unfortunately I am unable to upload them here (maybe I’ll be able to link it at some point). Much more interesting than the summit was hiking to the Pure Land temple nearby. While not visible to the undiscerning eye, there are many details that separate Pure Land and Zen, Japan’s largest Buddhist denominations. I’ll be honest: I am not those discerning eyes, but I do love to practice my Japanese, and it was an absolutely fascinating time meeting various travelers on the long pilgrimage to the temple and discuss religious practices with them. What was less magical was the suffocating heat and humidity. I don’t mind the heat, as summers reach 100 degrees quite often where I’m from, but the humidity is outrageous! Colorado is usually a dry desert in the summertime, so Kyoto’s unwavering humidity makes it difficult to soldier through these hikes without feeling like I’m melting into the trail. I was also fortunate to be able to explore the Kyoto Zoo and see its red pandas, but I couldn’t stay for long, as I was practically dissolving into the floor. That was easily the worst day for heat so far this summer.
This weekend was much cooler, and being rejuvenated by three cool days earlier that week, I set out to finish Nara’s tallest mountain and reach the Ancient Tomb at the top. Armed with only a single bottle of water, I quickly discovered that I had come woefully underprepared for the two-hour hike in the sunlight that had awaited me. Fortunately, I powered through and made it to the top which immediately rewarded me with the best view of Nara anywhere in the prefecture. To cool down, I hiked through the much cooler and more relaxed Primeval Forest, which was shaded but came with the unfortunate side effect of being accosted by the shrill orchestra of cicadas throughout the forest. I strongly recommend a visit to the forest regardless; it’s fascinating to see what old growth really looks like as it’s quite uncommon in America. Every square inch is overgrown and crowded with so much greenery that the trail felt like I was hiking in the darkness of twilight despite the sun being perfectly overhead. Kakigori at the end of the trail–Japanese shaved ice for the uninitiated–is a truly wonderful snack and a glorious reward for nearly 12 miles walked that day.
I know I’ve spend most of these posts talking about the hikes I’ve taken in Japan, but that’s simply because I see it so scarcely mentioned by the guides online and by my fellow students in the program. Nothing really makes you feel the ancient nature of the place than exploring the woods and stumbling into ancient Buddhist statues or shrine remnants yourself. I feel like since I’m in Japan, I had better see the things that literally can’t be done anywhere else, not to watch TV anime or have matcha flavored snacks or buy new clothes all day, since I could do that from the comfort of my dorm room. The most magical part of just getting out there, of course, is that it’s given me so many great opportunities to use the language in the wild, and for that I am the most grateful.